Driving to Berezhny
When choosing L’Viv to begin a quest to discover my ancestry in the Ukraine, I failed to comprehend the difficulty in traveling less than 100 km (approximately 62 miles) to the small town of Berezhany. On a map, it looked relatively close to L’viv and easy to drive to. I didn’t anticipate the lack of trains or bus system to travel into this rural area. The one road connecting L’viv to Berezhany was unpaved and nearly unmarked by road signs. It was primarily graveled and littered with large pot holes–some deep enough to require slowing down and driving gingerly around them, or risk damaging the car.
The road to Berezhany.
Had I not hired a private car and driver/interpreter for this segment of the journey, my desire to search for potential relatives or ancestors would have ended in L’viv.
Through the kindness and professionalism of the L’viv hotel, a staff member hired a driver/interpreter to drive his own vehicle and accompany me as I searched for answers to my ancestry. Never driving this road before, he risked damage to his vehicle just to allow me this opportunity to journey to Berezhany.
My kind driver/interpreter.
As it was, I happily bounced around a bit in the back seat while scanning my surroundings. If not for the decision of my great grandparents families, I might still be living somewhere in this vicinity!
Low hills in the distance as we drove the valley road to Berezhany.
One of only a few road signs directing the way. Without a guide fluent in Ukrainian, I would have missed which of the two roads to take.
Dismayed at the poor condition of the roads, my guide explained roadways hadn’t been repaired since the Ukraine was under U.S.S.R. rule. Russia has money, Ukraine does not. Following the breakup of the U.S.S.R. very little funding is available for road repairs or upkeep.
This was going to be a very long three hour drive. Gratefully, the young man provided insight into life in the Ukraine and answers to some of my questions. I asked numerous questions and learned much about this country. With minimal opportunities in the small villages, most young people left their homes for better jobs or higher education in the larger cities (i.e., L’viv or Kiev) once they reached adulthood. .
Few roads intersected the one we drove on.
Rolling hills, clusters of leafless trees, and a few scattered farms were visible from the car as we drove slowly to Berezhany. Small farms were quickly disappearing due to the difficulties of moving their crops to market.
One of the few “larger” farms seen in the distance.
Numerous Orthodox church domes anchor each small district or town.
Horse drawn carts confirmed how “unchanged” life was in this area of the world. Some carts were pulled by one horse, others by two.
Easier to drive a horse than a car on this area of roadway.
Another Orthodox church.
Pedestrians gathered here and there beside the main roadway, waiting for public transportation. Occasionally, we saw elderly caring for their small yards by sweeping the dirt side walk of leaves and debris. Chickens scurried away from our moving vehicle.
Most of the local women wore kerchiefs around their heads (“babushkas” as my grandmother called them) and long aprons. Rural men wore baggy pants and covered their heads with wool or fur caps.
Few own automobiles. Horse and carts are often relied upon to pick up and deliver supplies.
Respectfully, our driver took care as he drove around the horse drawn wagons.
In the back of many homes I saw chicken coops, goats, cows and small gardens. Here and there, a dog or cat could be seen, and fewer still were young children with their caretaker, playing in their yards.
One woman keeping property neat and clean using the same methods and tools that her ancestors used.
We discussed Ukraine’s military draft system. Every man must spend time in the military though a family’s financial resources played a part as to where the recruit slept (barracks), or the position he later held. With scant tactical training and very few modern weapons or supporting aircraft, the draft system offered little protection for the Ukraine against a super military power like Russia (in the Crimean peninsula), He felt the only chance of success in this war was through the strength and intervention of either the EU or the USA or both–though either seemed unlikely.
Yet, he remained hopeful in the future of this newly formed country. Aware of changes needed in the government, he participated in the recent political protests held in Kiev a few months earlier. Some of his friends lost their lives while fighting for what they believed in. They successfully removed a corrupt President (one “tied” to Russia) and caused changes in the operations of this newly formed country. He believed in and trusted God in his life. He attended one of the large churches in L’viv with his friends and family. We all agreed, “With God all things are possible,” without Him, nothing is.
The car slowed and came to a stop while a traditional funeral procession approached. It seemed an entire village appeared on foot with an older truck carrying the precious cargo.
Local residents walked before and after an open bed truck carrying a casket.
Priest, family members and friends walked slowly behind the truck.
Life here appears simple and uncomplicated compared to life in the United States. Instead of 2014 it could just as easily be 1914. Peering through a car window into this culture, I wondered if much changed during the past hundred years. While the world looks away, Russia still threatens the existence of the Ukraine.
Zolota Lipa River–almost in Berezhny.
This is the landscape called “Galicia”–the name of the area under various monarchies hundreds of years ago.
I hope to find clues to my family here. If not, I will at least know a little more about the people who live here now, the life they lead and the manner in which some think about their own lives and that around them.
Established almost 700 years ago, at one time Berezhny contained a large castle and a thriving community.
God graciously and safely led me here. I will pray for this land, for the people I meet, and for those I’ve only “seen” from afar–through ancestral tales and family stories; photos and the media.
Psalm 33:13-15 “The Lord looks down from heaven; he sees all the children of man; from where he sits enthroned he looks out on all the inhabitants of the earth he who fashions the hearts of them all and observes all their deeds. “
Our heavenly Father, look down upon this land and bless these people who love you with all their heart. Protect and keep them. You remind us:
Psalm 33:16-18 “The king is not saved by his great army; a warrior is not delivered by his great strength. The war horse is a false hope for salvation, and by its great might it cannot rescue. Behold, the eye of the Lord is on those who fear him,on those who hope in his steadfast love,”
I have much to be grateful for and many to pray for. I am already changed before I even set foot into the town of Berezhany.
