Fragility of Freedom in Kyiv (Kiev), Ukraine

Daniel 2:21, “He changes times and seasons; he removes kings and sets up kings; he gives wisdom to the wise and knowledge to those who have understanding;”

By turning left outside the hotel-apartment in Kyiv and walking two blocks I found myself in the center of Ukraine’s bustling government and commerce area.  Khreshchaty (translated “cross or crest”) is the main street in Kyiv, running directly through Maidan Nezalezhnosti (“Independence Square”).

As a central location for centuries of revolutionary unrest, this city still maintains a vigilant posture–battles are never really over.  Earlier this year Ukrainians fought an internal war (another “bloody revolution”) to remove their pro-Russian President from office.   Right here, in Independence Square, thousands of Ukrainians across the country joined together for over two months of protests and impassioned speeches.

Buildings and barricades burned; over one hundred people died; and hundreds more suffered injuries–signifying another violent “rebirth” for the Ukraine.  Despite numerous obstacles and odds against such an outcome, President Yanukovych stepped down.  Looking around it’s hard to imagine this happened less than eight months ago.

Other than a couple of message boards containing pictures and personal messages, few outward signs remain.  Without the ability to read the Ukrainian epitaphs, I could only look at the photos and wonder at the bravery exhibited by these ordinary citizens.  As a third generation American I’m not faced with making the same decision, nor do I live in the midst of war.

But Ukraine’s battles are still not over.  Putin quickly punished Ukraine for the loss of his pawn.  Russian backed separatists invaded the southeastern area of Ukraine and the Crimean Peninsula seceded.   Ukrainians prefer peace.  They understand the high price associated with war–when world news reports a particular death toll in Crimea at 20, the real (and more accurate) number is closer to two hundred.

And so Ukraine prepares.  Soldiers are everywhere in Kyiv but all the more so in Maidan Square.  But is anyone really prepared for a war with Russia?

God our Father says that apart from Him, nothing happens that He doesn’t allow.  I don’t understand His ways, but I don’t need to.  He is my God and I put my trust in Him.  His Word simply is.  Psalm 75:7 states, “It is God who executes judgment, putting down one and lifting up another.”  And, though the Ukraine is free today it’s uncertain as to how long it will remain so.  So for now, I will learn as much as I can about this land and its people.

So I wonder:  how do I see, learn and experience Kyiv but am unable to read, speak or understand the language?  The answer is, of course, a tour guide.  In Kiev, joining one of the “Free Tours” provided the best tours in the city.

As a second generation guide, Alex’s vast knowledge of the city’s historical and cultural landmarks was surpassed only by his love of country and insight into his fellow Ukrainians.  We ended up spending two days with Alex discovering this amazing city he called home.   Since a few sights to visit were outside the city center, we began one of the days with a subway ride–beneath Maidan Nezalezhnosti.

There beneath the city square exists far more than just the typical subway system with a shop or two and, perhaps, a food vendor.  Unseen from above exists an elaborate subterranean world of restaurants, grocery stores and small shops tucked along the tunnel walls, plus a very large, modern, two-level shopping mall.   Winding our way through the maze of tunnels we entered into the subway area with an old fashioned, blue “subway token”.   As we walked through the turnstile Alex pointed out the thick steel doors shields on a metal track–meant to seal up the tunnels if a bomb threat occurred.  I asked how this might work.  Apparently, after hearing the alarms in the city, citizens are to hurry into the subways for protection against bomb attacks.  (The threats are real.  Putin wants Ukraine back under his control).

As we followed Alex into the correct escalators, we stepped onto one of the fastest and longest escalator in Kiev.  It is meant to moves thousands of passengers quickly downward into the belly of its tunnels.  I’ve used numerous subways in other countries but none sped downward at the speed or distance this one did–and none this steep!  I gripped the side railing. (Alex explained the importance of holding onto the right side of the railing:  people are known to fall; holding on prevents being knocked down with them.)  I held tight.

We finally stepped out of the subway; walked a few blocks; and discovered (not by accident) this beautiful 3d sculpture.

As a tradition there is a designated “Day of Remembrance” on the eleventh hour of the eleventh day of the eleventh month (Remembrance Day).  Commonwealth countries pay their respects by laying wreaths of flowers and holding a simple ceremony to remember those who gave their lives during the war.

Though this ceremony is to remember WWII, this day it reminded everyone to think of the soldiers dying each day on the Ukraine’s Eastern border.

Leaving this ceremony behind us, we stood at the next–children starved as entire families endured years of artificial starvation (genocide) during Stalin’s brutal control of the Ukraine.  Between the years of 1929-1934 Stalin implemented a policy (5 year plan, “Five Ears of Corn” law) denying Ukrainians food–not even a few stalks of grain from their own farmlands under the penalty of death.  Up to 10 million died; 3 million children.

I possess no words or thoughts to express my emotions of this tragedy.  If the cover up of this enormous act of cruelty is possible, history will repeat.

My heart aches for this land of my ancestors.  My understanding and knowledge of the Ukraine expands each day I’m here.  I realize the possibility of my “non existence” if my ancestors (farmers in the small village of Berezhny) remained in Ukraine instead of fleeing to the USA in 1905.  I am grateful for their decision.

Just beyond these memorials reminding one of the cost of war and the crimes against humanity is another statue/memorial.  This time it is in remembrance of Russia:  “Rodina Mat”.  Controversial in nature is truly an understatement today.  Built during the days of U.S.S.R control of Ukraine, this particular memorial towers 102 meters high (including the military museum on which it stands).  Modeled after a symbol created during World War II to mobilize the Soviet people; unveiled in 1981; and a stainless steel reminder of the one country looming over free Ukraine.  With a sword in one hand and shield (with the state emblem for the Soviet Union) in the other, its presence isn’t meant to be missed.

Walking through the “Museum of The History of Ukraine in World War II” I realized the sheer number of men dying–Hitler took lives on one side, Stalin did likewise on the other.  After starvation under Stalin’s laws killed almost 10 million Ukrainians, Hitler decimated them during World War II.  While an estimated 6 million jews were killed in Hitler’s extermination camps; nearly 8 million Ukrainians died.  That means, one of every four citizens in Ukraine were killed.  As I looked through one area of the museum to the next, the heaviness inside my heart grew.  I will never forget seeing photos of those who died a few months ago in Maidan Square, and the photos on the museum walls of the millions who died during World War II.

The internet, with its social media sites and numerous news sites, provides knowledge to those who diligently seek it.  Yet, up until this moment, I never really knew Ukraine.  And yet, the world stands idly by while a dominant Russia invaded Ukraine’s southeastern border.  Putin desires his neighbor.  When a leader of one country demonstrably violates God’s commandments, evil expands.

I’ve fallen in love with this land and with these people–their honesty, unpretentiousness, and grateful hearts, but also their strength to endure hardships, their determination to create a free democracy in the face of “impossibilities,” and their steadfast faith in God:

Psalm 121:1-2, “I lift up my eyes to the mountains—where does my help come from?  My help comes from the Lord, the Maker of heaven and earth.”

Like David in the Old Testament, we each look to God for our help.